CAJ | 학술논문

利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,以比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系.分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用.
이용용랑영향하단시단내적충류대탄면고빈고정수거화쇄파대파류자료,재기이보분석(SSA)적기출상,이비연구료불동형태탄면적충어변화추세、추세분포형상、충어변화주기화충어변화강도,이급동일조부면불동장점간각인소간적변화관계;용교차보방법탐색료매분종탄면고빈충어변화여쇄파대장중력파간적작용관계.분석결과표명,탄각운률지형인기적충류분류작용촉진료탄척향탄곡적니사전운,충류대탄면존재명현적장중력파빈단적주기성충어진동,탄면충어진동강도유탄면하부향상부체감,쇄파대장중력파대탄면고빈충어변화기중요작용.
Using the data of beach face high oscillations and waves and flows of the surf zones influenced by the swells, the characteristics including beach face variation trends, trend shapes, oscillation periods, oscillation intensions of different profile shapes, and the characteristic relations between different stake points on the same profile were analyzed comparatively. The relations between the beach face with high oscillations erosion and sediment and the surf zone infragravity waves were also analyzed based on the cross spectrum analysis. The results showed that the swash diffluences caused by the beach cusp rhythm topography hasten the sediment transport from the beach ridge to beach paddy, and the beach face of the swash zones has the infragravity periodic oscillations, and the oscillation intensions descend from the bottom to the top of the beach face, and the infragravity waves of the surf zones have significant effect on the high-frequency variations of erosion and sediment of the beach face.