CAJ | 학술논문

该文通过引入有效波面函数,把考虑海底摩擦、波浪破碎、陡变和快变地形等因素影响的扩展型缓坡方程,化为最简形式的时间双曲型缓坡方程.基于此方程和非线性振幅频散关系,建立了波浪传播的数值模拟模型,并对数值格式进行了误差分析,结果表明由于耗散项的引入,数值格式的稳定性较文献[1]得到了提高.数值解与物理模型实验值和解析解吻合良好,表明模型可以对近岸波浪传播过程中折射、绕射、反射、浅水变形、海底摩擦、波浪破碎和弱非线性等因素的影响进行较好地预测.
해문통과인입유효파면함수,파고필해저마찰、파랑파쇄、두변화쾌변지형등인소영향적확전형완파방정,화위최간형식적시간쌍곡형완파방정.기우차방정화비선성진폭빈산관계,건립료파랑전파적수치모의모형,병대수치격식진행료오차분석,결과표명유우모산항적인입,수치격식적은정성교문헌[1]득도료제고.수치해여물리모형실험치화해석해문합량호,표명모형가이대근안파랑전파과정중절사、요사、반사、천수변형、해저마찰、파랑파쇄화약비선성등인소적영향진행교호지예측.
By introducing the effective wave elevation, the extended mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and rapidly varying bottom topography is transformed into the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation, the numerical simulation scheme is established and The computation stability is analyzed analysis It shows that the numerical stability is enhanced because of the introduced dissipation term. The calculated results are in agreement with the theoretical or experimental ones, which indicate that the present extended model is capable of giving good predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weakly nonlinearity in the near shore zone.