CAJ | 학술논문

通过测试香云纱的穿着舒适性、耐穿用性、抗皱性的相关指标,并与相应的精练绸进行比较,研究香云纱的服用性能特点.结果表明,与精练绸相比,香云纱吸湿性有较明显提高,透气性有一定程度降低;由于精练绸的透气性优异,故透气性的降低不足以影响香云纱的穿着舒适性.香云纱对液态水的吸收速率显著降低,对液态水的保持能力下降,表现出拒水性强、持水性差的特点,具有"舒爽、快干"的性质.香云纱拉伸强力有一定程度提高,耐磨性显著增强;变形能力变差,撕裂强力明显降低.香云纱的抗皱性下降,湿态抗皱性好于干态;其折痕回弹性具有方向性,涂层外折时折皱恢复角较大.
통과측시향운사적천착서괄성、내천용성、항추성적상관지표,병여상응적정련주진행비교,연구향운사적복용성능특점.결과표명,여정련주상비,향운사흡습성유교명현제고,투기성유일정정도강저;유우정련주적투기성우이,고투기성적강저불족이영향향운사적천착서괄성.향운사대액태수적흡수속솔현저강저,대액태수적보지능력하강,표현출거수성강、지수성차적특점,구유"서상、쾌간"적성질.향운사랍신강력유일정정도제고,내마성현저증강;변형능력변차,시렬강력명현강저.향운사적항추성하강,습태항추성호우간태;기절흔회탄성구유방향성,도층외절시절추회복각교대.
The wearing performances of the gambiered Guangdong silk is studied by testing its comfortableness, durability and anti-crease property, and compared with the corresponding degummed silk fabric. The results show that gambiered Guangdong silk, though is inferior to degummed silk fabric in air permeability, but is superior in moisture absorption, so it still has good wearing comfortableness. Its ability to absorb and keep liquid water is decreases obviously, and consequently shows wash and wear property. The tensile strength is strengthened, and abrasion resistance is enhanced significantly; while the elongation ability, tearing strength and anti-crease property are weaken. Contrary to general silk fabrics, the gambiered Guangdong silk's anti-crease property is better in wet state than that in dry state, and it is direction depended, i.e. the crease recovery angle is bigger when the coating is folded outwardly.