纺织学报
紡織學報
방직학보
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH
2010年
3期
55-58,63
,共5页
鲁锦%经浮显花%线综%挑花
魯錦%經浮顯花%線綜%挑花
로금%경부현화%선종%도화
Lu Brocade%patterns by warp threads%thread framework%loop transfer
在对鲁锦深入调查的基础上,对鲁锦的织造技术进行探究,并收集、整理大量的鲁锦图案,用工程技术学的方法探讨了几种典型图案的织造技术,重点分析经线显花技术,认为日本博多织与鲁锦之间在经浮显花技术存在一定历史渊源.通过鲁锦"包袱带"加工,分析独特的"挂经"织造技术.基于鲁锦"七个字"织纹图案,剖析源于古代的一经穿多综的省综穿综方式,并分析鲁锦的挑花技术.认为鲁锦的部分织造技术具有科学性和创造性,是用现代织机无法实现的.
在對魯錦深入調查的基礎上,對魯錦的織造技術進行探究,併收集、整理大量的魯錦圖案,用工程技術學的方法探討瞭幾種典型圖案的織造技術,重點分析經線顯花技術,認為日本博多織與魯錦之間在經浮顯花技術存在一定歷史淵源.通過魯錦"包袱帶"加工,分析獨特的"掛經"織造技術.基于魯錦"七箇字"織紋圖案,剖析源于古代的一經穿多綜的省綜穿綜方式,併分析魯錦的挑花技術.認為魯錦的部分織造技術具有科學性和創造性,是用現代織機無法實現的.
재대로금심입조사적기출상,대로금적직조기술진행탐구,병수집、정리대량적로금도안,용공정기술학적방법탐토료궤충전형도안적직조기술,중점분석경선현화기술,인위일본박다직여로금지간재경부현화기술존재일정역사연원.통과로금"포복대"가공,분석독특적"괘경"직조기술.기우로금"칠개자"직문도안,부석원우고대적일경천다종적성종천종방식,병분석로금적도화기술.인위로금적부분직조기술구유과학성화창조성,시용현대직궤무법실현적.
Based on profound investigations of Lu brocade,we explore the weaving technology of Lu brocade by collecting,classifying and analyzing a great deal of patterns,and probe into the weaving technology of several typical patterns by using engineering technology methodology with focus on patterns by warp threads.It is considered that some historical origin exits between Japanese Hakata-or I and Lu brocade in respect of making patterns by warp threads.Through manufacturing of cloth-wrapper band,the unique hanging-warps weaving technology of Lu brocade is analyzed.Based on the weaving pattern of seven characters,we analyze the framework-saving drawing method originating from an ancient method-a warp yarn passing through several frameworks.In addition,the loop transfer technology of Lu brocade is discussed.Finally,we conclude that some weaving technology of Lu brocade are scientific and creative,which can not be implemented by modem loom.