CAJ | 학술논문

通过对辣椒红色素在化妆品体系中的影响因素进行考察,研究了其溶解度、光照、温度、pH、氧化剂、还原剂、金属离子、化妆品常用防腐剂、乳化剂、香精及UVA/UVA紫外光稳定剂以及化妆品制备工艺等条件的影响,得到了色素在不同条件下的稳定性变化程度和规律。结果表明,辣椒红色素在非极性较大的植物性油脂中溶解度和稳定性较好;色素对热稳定,耐酸碱（pH为4-11为宜）,但对太阳光不稳定;防腐剂、香精和低浓度氧化剂对色素影响较小,还原剂有助于提高其稳定性;金属离子Na^＋、K^＋、Ca^2＋和Zn^2＋对辣椒红色素无影响,Al^3＋、Cu^2＋、Fe^3＋、Ba^2＋、Mg^2＋和Pb^2＋等金属离子影响色素稳定性;乳化剂和UVA/UVB紫外光稳定剂对色素具有保护作用;化妆品制备工艺对色素稳定性产生直接影响,主要表现在O/W乳化体系。
통과대랄초홍색소재화장품체계중적영향인소진행고찰,연구료기용해도、광조、온도、pH、양화제、환원제、금속리자、화장품상용방부제、유화제、향정급UVA/UVA자외광은정제이급화장품제비공예등조건적영향,득도료색소재불동조건하적은정성변화정도화규률。결과표명,랄초홍색소재비겁성교대적식물성유지중용해도화은정성교호;색소대열은정,내산감（pH위4-11위의）,단대태양광불은정;방부제、향정화저농도양화제대색소영향교소,환원제유조우제고기은정성;금속리자Na^＋、K^＋、Ca^2＋화Zn^2＋대랄초홍색소무영향,Al^3＋、Cu^2＋、Fe^3＋、Ba^2＋、Mg^2＋화Pb^2＋등금속리자영향색소은정성;유화제화UVA/UVB자외광은정제대색소구유보호작용;화장품제비공예대색소은정성산생직접영향,주요표현재O/W유화체계。
This paper studied such factors influenced the stability of capsanthin in cosmetics formulation as solubility,light,temperature,pH,oxidants,reducing agents,metal ions,preservatives,emulsifier,essence,UVA / UVB light stabilizer and cosmetics preparation procedure,and obtained the change extent and patterns of capsanthin in different conditions.The results showed that capsanthin had good solubility and stability in non-polar vegetable olein;it had good resistance to heat and pH（pH of 4 ~ 11 is appropriate）,but was sensitive to sunlight;preservatives,essence and low concentration of oxidants,had little influence on its stability,but reducing agents improved its stability.Irons such as Na^＋、K^＋、Ca^2＋、Zn^2＋ had little influence on its stability,while others like Al^3＋、Cu^2＋、Fe^3＋、Ba^2＋、Mg^2＋ and Pb^2＋ affected its stability.Emulsifier and UVA/UVB light stabilizer showed certain color maintenance;preparation procedure of cosmetics had an effect on its stability directly,especially in the O / W system.