CAJ | 학술논문

为进一步利用竹浆纤维的特性开发优良面料,采用了5种不同混纺比的竹浆/棉混纺纬纱与纯棉经纱交织,共设计开发了15种不同规格的面料,对其悬垂性、刚柔性、折皱性进行测试比较.结果表明:和纯棉织物比较,棉与竹浆/棉纱交织物的悬垂性、刚柔性和抗皱性得到显著改善;随着纬纱混纺比中竹浆纤维含量的增加,交织物静、动态悬垂因数减小,悬垂感和形态效果得到有效改善;交织物的抗弯刚度和抗弯弹性模量减小,柔软性提高;交织物弹性回复角增大,折皱回复性能提高,其抗皱性也显著提高;当织物组织、原料及经密相同时,随着交织物中纬密的增大,其悬垂性和刚柔性变差,织物的急、缓弹性回复性能呈下降趋势.当竹浆/棉纬纱混纺比为55/45时,其服用织物形态对称性较差,应慎重选用.
위진일보이용죽장섬유적특성개발우량면료,채용료5충불동혼방비적죽장/면혼방위사여순면경사교직,공설계개발료15충불동규격적면료,대기현수성、강유성、절추성진행측시비교.결과표명:화순면직물비교,면여죽장/면사교직물적현수성、강유성화항추성득도현저개선;수착위사혼방비중죽장섬유함량적증가,교직물정、동태현수인수감소,현수감화형태효과득도유효개선;교직물적항만강도화항만탄성모량감소,유연성제고;교직물탄성회복각증대,절추회복성능제고,기항추성야현저제고;당직물조직、원료급경밀상동시,수착교직물중위밀적증대,기현수성화강유성변차,직물적급、완탄성회복성능정하강추세.당죽장/면위사혼방비위55/45시,기복용직물형태대칭성교차,응신중선용.
For further utilizing the characteristics of bamboo fibers and developing fine textile fabrics,we have designed and developed 15 kinds of mixed fabrics with different specifications by using five kinds of blending ratio of bamboo/cotton warp and filling.The drape,rigid flexibility,and crease resistance were tested.The results showed that the cotton and bamboo/cotton mixed fabric has better drape,rigidflexibility and crease resistance than the pure cotton fabric.With increase of bamboo fiber content in the filling,the static and dynamic drape coefficient of the mixed fabric decreased,while the drapability and form improved.The bending rigidity and bending modulus of elasticity decreased,and the softness improved.Elastic recovery angle increased,and crease recovery and crease resistance enhanced.When the fabric structure,raw materials and warp density were the same,the drape and rigid flexible decreased,and both the fast and slow elastic recovery exhibited a downward mend with increase of weft density.When the blending ratio of bamboo/cotton blend filling was 55/45,the symmetry of the fabric form was poor and care should be taken when choosing this ratio.