CAJ | 학술논문

为了提高超薄型羊绒衫织物的抗起毛起球性能，同时减少抗起毛起球整理过程中对羊绒纤维的损伤，选择水溶性树脂类抗起毛起球剂和有机硅类柔软剂作为整理剂，研究超薄型羊绒衫树脂加法整理与柔软整理相结合的联合整理工艺。结果表明，最佳的联合整理工艺为先树脂加法整理，再柔软整理；可以使超薄型羊绒针织物的抗起毛起球等级提高到4级，织物顶破强力保留率99．5％，悬垂系数和抗弯刚度分别下降29．5％和65％，对吸湿性能几乎无影响，手感好。可见，此联合整理工艺适用于超轻薄型羊绒衫的抗起毛起球整理。
위료제고초박형양융삼직물적항기모기구성능，동시감소항기모기구정리과정중대양융섬유적손상，선택수용성수지류항기모기구제화유궤규류유연제작위정리제，연구초박형양융삼수지가법정리여유연정리상결합적연합정리공예。결과표명，최가적연합정리공예위선수지가법정리，재유연정리；가이사초박형양융침직물적항기모기구등급제고도4급，직물정파강력보류솔99．5％，현수계수화항만강도분별하강29．5％화65％，대흡습성능궤호무영향，수감호。가견，차연합정리공예괄용우초경박형양융삼적항기모기구정리。
To improve the anti-pilling character of the super-thin cashmere sweater, and prevent cashmere fiber from being damaged in the process of anti-pilling, the researchers chose anti-pilling agent of water-solubility resin and organic silicone softening agent as finishing agent, studied the processes that use water-solubility resin integrate with organic silicone agent for anti-pilling finishing of the super-thin cashmere knitted sweater. The result show that the optimum integrated anti-pilling finishing processes are： first, resin finishing, then, Organic silicon softening finishing; after finishing, anti-pilling grade of super-thin cashmere sweater increased to 4, Retention Ratio of fabric bursting strength is 99. 5%, fell by 29.5% for drape coefficient and 65% for flexural rigidity of fabric, having no effect on water absorption ability, and good touch feeling. So the integrated process is suitable for anti-pilling finishing of Super-thin cashmere knitted sweater.