CAJ | 학술논문

竹棉/Coolmax交织小提花织物染整加工主要包括烧毛、冷轧堆前处理、定形、半丝光、染色和后整理工序.前处理采用低碱冷轧堆工艺和直辊半丝光工艺,烧碱用量160～170 g/L,浸碱时间40～45 s;定形工艺条件为180℃×30 S,以稳定纬向尺寸;染色采用分散/活性浸染工艺,分散染料染色温度宜控制在120℃;拉幅选用亲水柔软整理剂或吸湿排汗整理剂以及两次预缩整理.其成品指标达到英威达Coolmax日常型非弹性机织物的性能要求.
죽면/Coolmax교직소제화직물염정가공주요포괄소모、랭알퇴전처리、정형、반사광、염색화후정리공서.전처리채용저감랭알퇴공예화직곤반사광공예,소감용량160～170 g/L,침감시간40～45 s;정형공예조건위180℃×30 S,이은정위향척촌;염색채용분산/활성침염공예,분산염료염색온도의공제재120℃;랍폭선용친수유연정리제혹흡습배한정리제이급량차예축정리.기성품지표체도영위체Coolmax일상형비탄성궤직물적성능요구.
The dyeing and finishing process of bamboo viscose/cotton/Coolmax interwoven dobby includes singeing, cold pad-batch pretreatment, setting, semi-mercerizing, dyeing and finishing. Optimum process conditions were determined as fol-lows: cold pad-batch pretreatment with low alkali, clipless semi-mercerizing with 160～170 g/L sodium hydroxide for 40～45 seconds; heat setting at 180 ℃ for 30 seconds so as to obtain stable weft dimension; exhaust dyeing with disperse and reac-tive dyes, disperse dyeing at the temperature of 120 ℃, addition of high-temperature leveling agent to improve levelness and softening agent to reduce the friction; finishing with the selected hydrophilic softening agent or moisture-management hygro-scopic agents to attain soft handle and favorable moisture absorbent property; twice pre-shrinking operations. Results showed that the index of finished goods reached the requirements of INVISTA Coolmax everyday non-elastic woven fabric.