CAJ | 학술논문

桑蚕丝织物在使用过程中,纱线的滑移即纰裂是影响其视觉风格和服用性能的关键因素,它受到纱线性能和织物结构参数的影响.从Peiree的织物结构模型出发,对拉伸过程中织物单根经纬纱交织点处受力进行分析,提出了计算平纹桑蚕丝织物纱线滑移的模型.从理论与实践上建立了桑蚕丝织物结构参数与其纰裂性之间的关系,在织物设计之前就能够预先估算织物的滑移阻力,为桑蚕丝织物的开发设计提供了理论依据.
상잠사직물재사용과정중,사선적활이즉비렬시영향기시각풍격화복용성능적관건인소,타수도사선성능화직물결구삼수적영향.종Peiree적직물결구모형출발,대랍신과정중직물단근경위사교직점처수력진행분석,제출료계산평문상잠사직물사선활이적모형.종이론여실천상건립료상잠사직물결구삼수여기비렬성지간적관계,재직물설계지전취능구예선고산직물적활이조력,위상잠사직물적개발설계제공료이론의거.
Slipping of silk fabric during serviceability is a critical factor which influences fabric style and garment wearability.The slipping has a close relationship with such factors as fiber,yarn and fabric structures.Peirce's Rigid-thread Model of the woven fabric was used to analyze the strength being subjected at the crossing point of single warp and weft during the process of stretching,and a mathematical model for calculating the slippage resistance of yarns in plain silk fabric was proposed.The relationship between structural parameter and slipping property of silk fabric was established both in theoretical and practical aspects for estimation of slippage resistance of yarns in silk fabric,thus providing a theoretical basis for the development and design of silk fabrics.