CAJ | 학술논문

为了完成动态样板的设计,基于10名男性人体在静、动态下的1 600个尺寸,采用因子分析和方差分析方法,研究了腰部及下肢运动对人体尺寸的影响,以及尺寸变化对服装松量设计的影响.数据及分析结果表明,9种尺寸是描述人体下肢及躯干下部的关键部位尺寸,也是下装样板设计中最为重要的基本尺寸.除了腰围和脚踝围外,9种腰部及下肢运动对其他7种关键尺寸的变化都有明显的影响,尤其是对臀围和后腿中心线长度的影响最为明显.最后,根据这些尺寸变化和分析结果,讨论了下装纸样中部位松量设计以及面料弹性性能的设计.
위료완성동태양판적설계,기우10명남성인체재정、동태하적1 600개척촌,채용인자분석화방차분석방법,연구료요부급하지운동대인체척촌적영향,이급척촌변화대복장송량설계적영향.수거급분석결과표명,9충척촌시묘술인체하지급구간하부적관건부위척촌,야시하장양판설계중최위중요적기본척촌.제료요위화각과위외,9충요부급하지운동대기타7충관건척촌적변화도유명현적영향,우기시대둔위화후퇴중심선장도적영향최위명현.최후,근거저사척촌변화화분석결과,토론료하장지양중부위송량설계이급면료탄성성능적설계.
Based on 1 600 measurements of 10 subjects measured in natural standing state and shoulder joint movements,two statistical methods,including factor analysis and one-way ANOVA,were used in this study to explore principal body measurements and analyze effects of different waist and lower limb movements on each principal body measurement for clothing ease design.which were helpful to dynamic pattern design.The findings showed that changes of all body measurements in waist and lower limb movements were different and 9 measurements were principal body measurements,which were used in bottom pattern making.Except waist and ankle girth,effects of waist and lower limb movements on each principal body measurement were significant,especially on hip girth and back central length of leg.Finally,clothing ease design and fabric elasticity design were discussed according to the changing results of principal body measurements in different movements.