CAJ | 학술논문

针对棉氨纶汗布先染色后磨毛导致的色差和缩水问题，提出对磨毛工艺进行改进。首先对比了先染色、后光坯磨毛，及先毛坯磨毛、后染色两种工艺流程，得出染前磨毛对磨毛效果和坯布强力虽均有影响，但可通过对磨毛时的车速、小锡林转速、张力等工艺参数的调整得到客户满意的产品。此项工艺流程的改进可减少一次拉幅定形、解决光坯磨毛后颜色变化的不可控性和坯布的缩水问题，降低了生产成本，取得了较好的经济效益。
침대면안륜한포선염색후마모도치적색차화축수문제，제출대마모공예진행개진。수선대비료선염색、후광배마모，급선모배마모、후염색량충공예류정，득출염전마모대마모효과화배포강력수균유영향，단가통과대마모시적차속、소석림전속、장력등공예삼수적조정득도객호만의적산품。차항공예류정적개진가감소일차랍폭정형、해결광배마모후안색변화적불가공성화배포적축수문제，강저료생산성본，취득료교호적경제효익。
In view of the problem of color difference and shrinkage caused by sanding after dyeing of cotton/polyurethane single jersey knitted fabric, the paper presents the technological improvement method of sanding pro-cess. The dyeing first process and sanding of blank first process are compared, the results show that the sanding first process has an impact on the sanding effect and strength of fabric, but the customers get the satisfactory prod-ucts through adjusting the speed of sanding machine and small cylinder and the tension parameters. The process im-proved in this paper can reduce the times of tentering and setting, solve the color difference problem after sanding of gray fabric and the shrinkage matter, which can reduce the costs and improve economic efficiency.