CAJ | 학술논문

基于线性波浪理论，利用摄动理论中的多重尺度法，以坡度着为小参数，Liu和Shi[1]推导出波浪在不平坦底床传播的波幅方程，以及一阶势函数的解析解。为验证该模型是否可用于平面二维波浪传播问题，利用有限差分法，分别对波幅方程和边界条件进行离散和求解，得到因折射、绕射引起的波幅和波向的变化。通过引入绕射因子，使该模型的应用范围更为广泛，并且计算精度得到提高。将计算得到的波向和波高与Berkhoff[2]、Berkhoff等[3]椭圆形浅滩试验值进行比较，表明该模型可以应用于平面二维问题。
기우선성파랑이론，이용섭동이론중적다중척도법，이파도착위소삼수，Liu화Shi[1]추도출파랑재불평탄저상전파적파폭방정，이급일계세함수적해석해。위험증해모형시부가용우평면이유파랑전파문제，이용유한차분법，분별대파폭방정화변계조건진행리산화구해，득도인절사、요사인기적파폭화파향적변화。통과인입요사인자，사해모형적응용범위경위엄범，병차계산정도득도제고。장계산득도적파향화파고여Berkhoff[2]、Berkhoff등[3]타원형천탄시험치진행비교，표명해모형가이응용우평면이유문제。
Based on the linear wave theory,by using the multiple-scale method and a small slope parameterε,Liu and Shi[1] obtain the first-order approximate solutions of the wave potential function,as well as wave amplitude equation,for the prob-lem of wave propagation over an uneven coastal bottom. This study introduces the diffraction factor, which expands Liu and Shi[1]’s application range and improves its accuracy. Both wave amplitude equation and boundary conditions are discretized and solved by the finite difference method. Variations in wave amplitude and direction of wave propagation caused by the refraction and diffraction are obtained. The validation study has been made useing of the experimental results of Berkhoff[2] or Berkhoff et al[3]’s elliptic shoal test. It is suggested that the present model be applied to two-dimensional wave propagation problems.