针织工业
針織工業
침직공업
KNITTING INDUSTRIES
2014年
2期
10-11
,共2页
绢丝%间隔珍珠提花面料%编织工艺%染整工艺
絹絲%間隔珍珠提花麵料%編織工藝%染整工藝
견사%간격진주제화면료%편직공예%염정공예
Spun Silk%Spaced Pearlescent Jacquard Knitted Fabric%Knitting Technology%Dyeing and Finish-ing Technology
介绍在大圆机上编织绢丝针织物时的用纱要求，采用8.3 tex×2的绢丝为原料，在双面大圆机上开发了一款新型的间隔珍珠提花面料。阐述原料规格、设备参数、组织结构、织针排列、三角排列、编织图等编织工艺，以及精练、染色、固色、定形等染整工艺及注意事项，并给出了面料基本技术参数。该间隔珍珠提花面料，表面具有珍珠一样的小球，悬垂性好，手感光滑、细腻，如加入氨纶裸丝，面料更具有弹性、抗皱性，适合开发春秋T恤衫、休闲装及时装等。
介紹在大圓機上編織絹絲針織物時的用紗要求，採用8.3 tex×2的絹絲為原料，在雙麵大圓機上開髮瞭一款新型的間隔珍珠提花麵料。闡述原料規格、設備參數、組織結構、織針排列、三角排列、編織圖等編織工藝，以及精練、染色、固色、定形等染整工藝及註意事項，併給齣瞭麵料基本技術參數。該間隔珍珠提花麵料，錶麵具有珍珠一樣的小毬，懸垂性好，手感光滑、細膩，如加入氨綸裸絲，麵料更具有彈性、抗皺性，適閤開髮春鞦T卹衫、休閒裝及時裝等。
개소재대원궤상편직견사침직물시적용사요구，채용8.3 tex×2적견사위원료，재쌍면대원궤상개발료일관신형적간격진주제화면료。천술원료규격、설비삼수、조직결구、직침배렬、삼각배렬、편직도등편직공예，이급정련、염색、고색、정형등염정공예급주의사항，병급출료면료기본기술삼수。해간격진주제화면료，표면구유진주일양적소구，현수성호，수감광활、세니，여가입안륜라사，면료경구유탄성、항추성，괄합개발춘추T휼삼、휴한장급시장등。
Based on the quality demands for spun silk, the paper develops a new kind of spaced pearlescent jacquard knitted fabric on double circular knitting machine by using 8.3 tex×2 spun silk. It introduces in detail the knitting technology including raw material’s specification, equipment parameters, fabric structure, needle arrange-ment, cam arrangement and knitting diagram, and the dyeing and finishing technology including refining, dyeing, fixation and setting and so on. In addition, the basic technical parameters are given. The results show that this kind of new jacquard fabric has pearlescent appearance, and presents good drapability, smooth hand, and better flexibility and wrinkle resistance properties when uncovered spandex employed, which is suitable for developing T-shirt in spring and summer, leisure wear and fashion fabrics as well.
