CAJ | 학술논문

波浪能谱模型在岛屿岛礁海域的波浪预报研究和海洋工程中应用广泛，但存在模式计算格点无法充分体现岛屿岛礁的复杂地形特征和很难刻画波浪受到岛屿岛礁影响发生变形物理过程等两个关键问题。多重网格嵌套方案、岛屿次网格地形效应计算方案以及非结构网格、无网格、动态自适应四叉树网格等技术在体现岛屿岛礁复杂地形方面取得了较好的效果；将相位解析模型与波浪能谱模型优势互补是提高能谱模型对岛屿近岸波浪变形物理过程计算能力的一个有效方法。开展球坐标系下波作用密度谱方程的自适应四叉树网格求解方法研究，借鉴相位解析模型最新成果完善能谱模式的绕射、反射、底摩擦等物理过程，是提高岛屿岛礁海域海浪精细预报技术水平的前沿性、探索性研究方向。
파랑능보모형재도서도초해역적파랑예보연구화해양공정중응용엄범，단존재모식계산격점무법충분체현도서도초적복잡지형특정화흔난각화파랑수도도서도초영향발생변형물리과정등량개관건문제。다중망격감투방안、도서차망격지형효응계산방안이급비결구망격、무망격、동태자괄응사차수망격등기술재체현도서도초복잡지형방면취득료교호적효과；장상위해석모형여파랑능보모형우세호보시제고능보모형대도서근안파랑변형물리과정계산능력적일개유효방법。개전구좌표계하파작용밀도보방정적자괄응사차수망격구해방법연구，차감상위해석모형최신성과완선능보모식적요사、반사、저마찰등물리과정，시제고도서도초해역해랑정세예보기술수평적전연성、탐색성연구방향。
For spectral wave mode ,how to adequately describe the island terrain features and accurate computation of the physical processes such as wave diffraction ,refraction and bottom friction due to the presence of shoals and channels or islands ,is a key task in an archipelago or reef area .Nested multi-grid scheme ,islands sub-grid topo-graphic effect calculation scheme ,fitted coordinate grids ,unstructured grids ,and dynamic adaptive quadtree grid technology embodied islands reefs complex terrain has made satisfactory effect. The complementary advantages of phase-resolving models could be perfect ocean wave spectrum model in order to improve the wave calculation accu-racy of the nearshore wave physical process in wave spectrum model .A spectral wave model coupling a quadtree-a-daptive discretization of the two spatial dimensions in spherical coordinates will be established ;Based on phase-re-solving models such of the mild-slope equation by taking into account high-order derivatives of the bottom profile and the current ,the introduction of new diffraction ,reflection and bottom friction effects will be exported correction factor for spectral wave model which is a frontier and exploratory development for ocean wave refined forecast in archipelago or reef ocean regions .