CAJ | 학술논문

破碎波对近海海岸地形以及海岸建筑物影响强烈，通过物理模型实验对孤立波、规则波作用下破碎带的床面形态以及孔隙水压力进行分析。破碎波冲击海床，破碎处床面上形成沙坝和沙坑，与规则波相比，孤立波破碎时对床面的冲刷更加剧烈，床面形成的沙坝和沙坑尺度更大，且土体内孔隙水压力幅值也较大。同时研究了波面变化对孔隙水压力的影响，发现波面变化历时曲线与孔隙水压力历时曲线相似，与孔隙水压力梯度历时曲线更为相似，说明波面变化更能反映海床内部孔隙水压力梯度的变化。通过探讨波浪与海床之间相互耦合作用，发现破碎带地形变化使得波浪出现不同破碎类型，分析得出卷破波比崩破波作用下孔隙水压力幅值大。
파쇄파대근해해안지형이급해안건축물영향강렬，통과물리모형실험대고립파、규칙파작용하파쇄대적상면형태이급공극수압력진행분석。파쇄파충격해상，파쇄처상면상형성사패화사갱，여규칙파상비，고립파파쇄시대상면적충쇄경가극렬，상면형성적사패화사갱척도경대，차토체내공극수압력폭치야교대。동시연구료파면변화대공극수압력적영향，발현파면변화력시곡선여공극수압력력시곡선상사，여공극수압력제도력시곡선경위상사，설명파면변화경능반영해상내부공극수압력제도적변화。통과탐토파랑여해상지간상호우합작용，발현파쇄대지형변화사득파랑출현불동파쇄류형，분석득출권파파비붕파파작용하공극수압력폭치대。
Breaking wave has significant influence on the offshore coastal topography and offshore struc-tures .Based on the physical model experiments ,the bed form and pore water pressure are analyzed in the wave broken zone under the solitary wave and regular wave .Under breaking wave impact ,the seabed sur-face scour is more heavily .Sandbar and sandpit are formed at the wave broken zone ,and their scales are larger and the amplitudes of pore water pressure are higher under the solitary wave compared with regular wave .At the same time ,effect of the variation of wave surface on the pore water pressure was studied .It is found that the duration curves of wave surface changing are similar to the duration curves of pore water pressure and it is more similar to the duration curves of pore water pressure gradient .It shows that the variation of wave surface can mostly reflect the variation of pore water pressure gradient on the seabed . Based on the discuss of the coupling effect between wave and seabed ,it is found that topography variation may lead to waves appear different broken types at the wave broken zone ,it was concluded from analysis that the pore water pressure amplitude under the plunging wave is bigger than spilling wave .