浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报
浙江紡織服裝職業技術學院學報
절강방직복장직업기술학원학보
JOURNAL OF ZHEJIANG TEXTILE & FASHION COLLEGE
2014年
1期
63-69
,共7页
汗巾儿%《金瓶梅词话》%功用%形制%文化内涵
汗巾兒%《金瓶梅詞話》%功用%形製%文化內涵
한건인%《금병매사화》%공용%형제%문화내함
handkerchief%the Golden Lotus%function%structure%cultural connotation
通过比较分析《金瓶梅词话》等史书出现的汗巾儿文字描述、史料保留的图片,考证了明代汗巾儿的功用和形制,揭示其审美特征和文化内涵。认为汗巾儿是明代普遍使用的佩饰之一,男女不限,女性以装饰居多,男性以实用为主;汗巾儿用料考究、花色丰富、装饰精美,用途多样,因而具有物质性和精神性的双重内涵。汗巾儿反映了明代物质丰富的生活方式、发达的商业和高超的纺织装饰艺术,也印证了当时人们对华美服饰的欣赏与情感生活的追求。
通過比較分析《金瓶梅詞話》等史書齣現的汗巾兒文字描述、史料保留的圖片,攷證瞭明代汗巾兒的功用和形製,揭示其審美特徵和文化內涵。認為汗巾兒是明代普遍使用的珮飾之一,男女不限,女性以裝飾居多,男性以實用為主;汗巾兒用料攷究、花色豐富、裝飾精美,用途多樣,因而具有物質性和精神性的雙重內涵。汗巾兒反映瞭明代物質豐富的生活方式、髮達的商業和高超的紡織裝飾藝術,也印證瞭噹時人們對華美服飾的訢賞與情感生活的追求。
통과비교분석《금병매사화》등사서출현적한건인문자묘술、사료보류적도편,고증료명대한건인적공용화형제,게시기심미특정화문화내함。인위한건인시명대보편사용적패식지일,남녀불한,녀성이장식거다,남성이실용위주;한건인용료고구、화색봉부、장식정미,용도다양,인이구유물질성화정신성적쌍중내함。한건인반영료명대물질봉부적생활방식、발체적상업화고초적방직장식예술,야인증료당시인문대화미복식적흔상여정감생활적추구。
other ancient history books and the pictures kept in the historical data, this paper makes a textual research on the function and structure of the handkerchief in Ming Dynasty and brought to light the aesthetic characteristics and cultural connotation. It is believed that handkerchief was one of commonly used baldrics in Ming Dynasty without gender limitation. Females used it for ornament while males used it for practical purposes. Handkerchief bears double connotation in material and spirit with its superior material, rich color and design, delicate dec-oration and versatile function. It reflects the life style with rich materials, the prosperous commerce and the advanced textile decoration art in Ming Dynasty. It also verifies people’s appreciation of magnificent clothing accessories and the pursuit for emotional life.