CAJ | 학술논문

系统介绍提花纵条毛衫裙、空气层横条毛衫裙以及披肩毛衫裙中，基于纸技艺的组织结构设计所形成的不同肌理效应与编织工艺，分析每款毛衫裙的组织结构对毛衫风格的影响，根据花型特点绘制花型意匠图，同时制作上机操作工艺单及制版程序，并给出详细的成品规格及密度参数。指出：基于纸技艺的提花组织、挑花组织、空气层组织、局部编织等的设计与应用，可赋予毛衫裙不同的风格特征，随着毛衫编织设备功能的日益完善，纸技艺除了运用于羊毛衫服装的组织结构的设计，还可以运用到羊毛衫服装整体或局部细节装饰以及造型结构适体性和工艺实现等方面，拓宽毛衫设计理念。
계통개소제화종조모삼군、공기층횡조모삼군이급피견모삼군중，기우지기예적조직결구설계소형성적불동기리효응여편직공예，분석매관모삼군적조직결구대모삼풍격적영향，근거화형특점회제화형의장도，동시제작상궤조작공예단급제판정서，병급출상세적성품규격급밀도삼수。지출：기우지기예적제화조직、도화조직、공기층조직、국부편직등적설계여응용，가부여모삼군불동적풍격특정，수착모삼편직설비공능적일익완선，지기예제료운용우양모삼복장적조직결구적설계，환가이운용도양모삼복장정체혹국부세절장식이급조형결구괄체성화공예실현등방면，탁관모삼설계이념。
The paper introduces the design method and knitting practice of several cardigan dresses with differ-ent pattern structures based on the paper art, such as jacquard vertical stripe, piquette horizontal stripe and shawl style cardigan dresses, which are produced on the computerized flat knitting machine. The pattern notations of each structure are described, and the operating sheet and plate making procedure are given, as well as the product specifications and density parameters. The results show that the jacquard, loop transfer stitch, piquette and partial knitting based on the paper art can give the cardigan dresses different appearances. With the popularity of comput-erized flat knitting machine, this kind of paper art design can also be applied to total or partial decoration of de-tails and process implementation and so on, which will broaden the design concept of cardigans.