CAJ | 학술논문

通过对稀土GdCl3用量、加入时间、染色温度、染色时间、pH值、匀染剂、盐量、浴比等各单因素进行了分析,从而确定正交实验,进而得到了提高羊绒深红色相活性染料染色性能的优化工艺。所确定的优化工艺为：稀土GdCl3用量为0.1%（o.m.f））,同染料一并加入,染色温度为85℃,染色时间为90min,pH值为4,浴比1：30,阿白哥B为1%（o.m.f）,固色剂为氨水,固色温度为80℃,固色时间30min。在最佳工艺条件下染色后,进行各指标测试：各项色牢度均提高了0.5～1级,上染率提高了10%左右,断裂强力、断裂强度、断裂伸长率、断裂功等有所增大,色差、pH、甲醛均在合格范围内。
통과대희토GdCl3용량、가입시간、염색온도、염색시간、pH치、균염제、염량、욕비등각단인소진행료분석,종이학정정교실험,진이득도료제고양융심홍색상활성염료염색성능적우화공예。소학정적우화공예위：희토GdCl3용량위0.1%（o.m.f））,동염료일병가입,염색온도위85℃,염색시간위90min,pH치위4,욕비1：30,아백가B위1%（o.m.f）,고색제위안수,고색온도위80℃,고색시간30min。재최가공예조건하염색후,진행각지표측시：각항색뇌도균제고료0.5～1급,상염솔제고료10%좌우,단렬강력、단렬강도、단렬신장솔、단렬공등유소증대,색차、pH、갑철균재합격범위내。
Various single factor analysis such as rare earth GdCl3 dosage,addition time,dyeing temperature,dyeing time,pH value,leveling agent,salt amount,bath ratio,etc.is carried out then the orthogonal experiment is conducted todetermine the optimal process to dye cashmere deep red colour with active dyes using rare earth GdCl3 as follows：rareearth GdCl3 dosage 0.1%（o.m.f）,added together with dye,dyeing at 85℃ for 90 min,pH= 4,bath ratio 1：30,assistant agenlB 1%（o.m.f）,using ammonia liquor as fixing agent,fixing at 80℃ for 30 min.Test results show that all colour fastnessindexes of the cashmere dyed under these conditions are improved by 0.5～1 rating,and dyeing yield increased about 10%,with improved breaking strength,breaking tenacity,elongation at break,and breaking work,and acceptable colourdifference,pH,and formaldehyde content.