CAJ | 학술논문

通过探讨板栗壳色素上染真丝针织物的pH值、染色温度、氯化钠用量、色素用量等因素对真丝针织物染色性能的影响，研究了板栗壳色素在真丝针织物上的直接染色工艺和先媒后染工艺，测试并比较了直接染色和先媒后染工艺染色后织物的颜色特征、染色牢度以及防紫外线性能。结果表明，板栗壳色素直接上染真丝针织物的最优工艺为：pH值3.0~3.6，温度95℃，时间60 min；板栗壳色素对真丝针织物具有较好的提升性能；媒染后染色织物的皂洗牢度和日晒牢度稍有提高；直接染色和先媒后染工艺染色后织物均具有优良的防紫外线性能。
통과탐토판률각색소상염진사침직물적pH치、염색온도、록화납용량、색소용량등인소대진사침직물염색성능적영향，연구료판률각색소재진사침직물상적직접염색공예화선매후염공예，측시병비교료직접염색화선매후염공예염색후직물적안색특정、염색뇌도이급방자외선성능。결과표명，판률각색소직접상염진사침직물적최우공예위：pH치3.0~3.6，온도95℃，시간60 min；판률각색소대진사침직물구유교호적제승성능；매염후염색직물적조세뇌도화일쇄뇌도초유제고；직접염색화선매후염공예염색후직물균구유우량적방자외선성능。
The effects of pH value, dyeing temperature, dosage of sodium chloride and pigment on the dyeing performance of silk knitted fabric dyed by chestrut shell pigment were discussed. The direct dyeing and mordant dyeing first and then dyed by chestnut shell pigment was studied. And the color feature, color fastness and UV-re-sistance performance of fabrics by direct dyeing was compared with those of fabrics which were dyed by mordant a-gent first. The results show that the optimal process of silk knitted fabric is pH 3~3.6 , temperature 95 ℃, 60 minutes; Chestnut shell pigment improves the performance of silk knitted fabrics; the soaping fastness and sunlight-fastness improves slightly after mordant dyeing. Fabrics have good UV-resistance performance after direct dyeing and mordant dyeing.