CAJ | 학술논문

为提高翘肩装的穿着舒适性和翘肩装纸样设计的技术水平，采用立体裁剪的方法，获取翘肩装的纸样，设计了9件样衣并加工制作．运用主观感觉评价的心理学标尺，进行着装实验，得到9件样衣的静、动态的评价结果．通过对样衣的舒适性评价结果的比较分析，进一步验证了袖山高与袖窿弧线长的关系式AH/3±（0～0.5）的可行性．得出翘起点的位置在侧颈点（SNP）和肩端点（SP）的1/2处较理想．
위제고교견장적천착서괄성화교견장지양설계적기술수평，채용입체재전적방법，획취교견장적지양，설계료9건양의병가공제작．운용주관감각평개적심이학표척，진행착장실험，득도9건양의적정、동태적평개결과．통과대양의적서괄성평개결과적비교분석，진일보험증료수산고여수륭호선장적관계식AH/3±（0～0.5）적가행성．득출교기점적위치재측경점（SNP）화견단점（SP）적1/2처교이상．
In order to improve the comfort of the upturned shoulder apparel and the technological level of the upturned shoulder apparel pattern design ,the experimental method of draping was adopted ,the up-turned shoulder apparel pattern was obtained ,and nine sample dresses were designed and made .The dressing experiment was done by using psychology scale of subjective evaluation ,and the results of as-sessment of static and dynamic of nine sample dresses were gained .The feasibility of the relation (AH/3 ± (0~0.5)) between cap height and armhole arc length was tested and verified by analyzing the evalu-ation results of the comfort of sample dresses comparatively .The ideal position of upturned starting point was verified at one half of SNP and SP .