针织工业
針織工業
침직공업
KNITTING INDUSTRIES
2014年
4期
4-6
,共3页
针织仿牛仔面料%斜纹组织%编织工艺%染整工艺%保暖性
針織倣牛仔麵料%斜紋組織%編織工藝%染整工藝%保暖性
침직방우자면료%사문조직%편직공예%염정공예%보난성
Denim Simulated Knitted Fabric%Twill-effect%Knitting Technology%Dyeing and Finishing Tech-nology%Heat Retention Properties
针对梭织牛仔布僵硬不透气、弹性和柔软性差的问题，采用莫代尔、羊毛混纺纱，Porel R、铜氨混纺纱，腈纶、羊毛混纺纱，涤纶抗静电纱，低温氨纶丝以及舒弹丝，在单面大圆机上开发了3款新型的针织仿牛仔斜纹面料。阐述了面料的编织工艺以及染整工艺，指出对织造后的坯布进行选择性染色来达到针织牛仔面料露白的风格，布面风格独特。该类型面料含有保暖型原料，因此面料达到了既时尚又保暖的功效，适合做秋冬男女装面料。但经性能测试表明，该类型面料的湿摩擦牢度差，有待今后进行更深入的研究探讨。
針對梭織牛仔佈僵硬不透氣、彈性和柔軟性差的問題，採用莫代爾、羊毛混紡紗，Porel R、銅氨混紡紗，腈綸、羊毛混紡紗，滌綸抗靜電紗，低溫氨綸絲以及舒彈絲，在單麵大圓機上開髮瞭3款新型的針織倣牛仔斜紋麵料。闡述瞭麵料的編織工藝以及染整工藝，指齣對織造後的坯佈進行選擇性染色來達到針織牛仔麵料露白的風格，佈麵風格獨特。該類型麵料含有保暖型原料，因此麵料達到瞭既時尚又保暖的功效，適閤做鞦鼕男女裝麵料。但經性能測試錶明，該類型麵料的濕摩抆牢度差，有待今後進行更深入的研究探討。
침대사직우자포강경불투기、탄성화유연성차적문제，채용막대이、양모혼방사，Porel R、동안혼방사，정륜、양모혼방사，조륜항정전사，저온안륜사이급서탄사，재단면대원궤상개발료3관신형적침직방우자사문면료。천술료면료적편직공예이급염정공예，지출대직조후적배포진행선택성염색래체도침직우자면료로백적풍격，포면풍격독특。해류형면료함유보난형원료，인차면료체도료기시상우보난적공효，괄합주추동남녀장면료。단경성능측시표명，해류형면료적습마찰뇌도차，유대금후진행경심입적연구탐토。
In view of the problem of woven denim fabric with weak flexibility and softness, the paper develops 3 new kinds of denim simulated knitted twill-effect fabrics on single circular knitting machine by using modal/wool blended yarn, porel R/cupro blended yarn, acrylic/wool blended yarn, polyester anti-static yarn, spandex and poly-olefin. It also introduces in detail the knitting technology and the dyeing and finishing technology, and points out that the unique style of denim fabric can be achieved by selective dyeing. The fabric with thermal fiber not only presents fashion appearance, but also has good heat retention function, which is suitable for developing autumn and winter knitted fabric. But the performance testing results show that the wet-rubbing fastness is poor, which needs to be studied further in the future.
