CAJ | 학술논문

阐述采用高支精梳棉纱开发经编无缝服装的研发思路，包括原料选择以及整经、编织过程中工艺参数的确定及注意事项。并结合一款高支精梳棉经编无缝服装的开发实例，介绍了其生产工艺：整经时，每个经轴盘头4个，盘头头份为616，整经速度100 m/min，整经转数为3000 r，整经时KFD张力器刻度均调至10；编织设备选用GE2396型三维成形经编机，地梳穿入5.8 tex高支精梳棉纱，贾卡梳穿入锦氨包覆纱（33.3 dtex锦纶包22.2 dtex氨纶），织物的牵拉密度均为10横列/cm。高支精梳棉经编无缝服装的开发使经编无缝产品档次得到提升，具有较强的市场竞争力。
천술채용고지정소면사개발경편무봉복장적연발사로，포괄원료선택이급정경、편직과정중공예삼수적학정급주의사항。병결합일관고지정소면경편무봉복장적개발실례，개소료기생산공예：정경시，매개경축반두4개，반두두빈위616，정경속도100 m/min，정경전수위3000 r，정경시KFD장력기각도균조지10；편직설비선용GE2396형삼유성형경편궤，지소천입5.8 tex고지정소면사，가잡소천입금안포복사（33.3 dtex금륜포22.2 dtex안륜），직물적견랍밀도균위10횡렬/cm。고지정소면경편무봉복장적개발사경편무봉산품당차득도제승，구유교강적시장경쟁력。
This paper mainly presents about how to develop warp knitted seamless garment with high count combed cotton yarn, including yarn selection, the determination of technological parameters in the process of beam-ing and knitting, as well as the precautions. Taking the knitting of garment with high count combed cotton yarn as an example, it introduces the complete process. During beaming, every warp sheet is supplied by 4 beams, and there are 616 ends in each beam; the warp speed reaches 100 meters per minute, warping revolution is 3 000, and KFD tensioner goes to its top of 10. Developed on GE2396 warp knitting machine, the ground bar is fully threaded by combed yarn(5.8 tex), the jacquard bar by spandex warpped by nylon yarn(spandex of 22.2 dtex and nylon of 33.3 dtex), the take-up densities are all 10 courses per cm. Finally it points out that the warp knitted garment with cotton yarn is high grade and more competitive.