CAJ | 학술논문

This-paper-considers-the-nonlinear-transformation-of-irregular-waves-propagating-over-a-mild-slope-(1?40).-Two-cases-of-irregular-waves,-which-are-mechanically-generated-based-on-JONSWAP-spectra,-are-used-for-this-purpose.-The-results-indicate-that-the-wave-heights-obey-the-Rayleigh-distribution-at-the-offshore-location;however,-in-the-shoaling-region,-the-heights-of-the-largest-waves-are-underestimated-by-the-theoretical-distributions.-In-the-surf-zone,-the-wave-heights-can-be-approximated-by-the-composite-Weibull-distribution.-In-addition,-the-nonlinear-phase-coupling-within-the-irregular-waves-is-investigated-by-the-wavelet-based-bicoherence.-The-bicoherence-spectra-reflect-that-the-number-of-frequency-modes-participating-in-the-phase-coupling-increases-with-the-decreasing-water-depth,-as-does-the-degree-of-phase-coupling.-After-the-incipient-breaking,-even-though-the-degree-of-phase-coupling-decreases,-a-great-number-of-higher-harmonic-wave-modes-are-also-involved-in-nonlinear-interactions.-Moreover,-the-summed-bicoherence-indicates-that-the-frequency-mode-related-to-the-strongest-local-nonlinear-interactions-shifts-to-higher-harmonics-with-the-decreasing-water-depth.