CAJ | 학술논문

本研究采用纯棉纱线作经纱与木棉/棉混纺纱线交织，设计开发木棉/棉混纺牛仔面料，并对生产过程织前工序、织造过程、丝光后整理各工艺关键技术进行分析，通过对面料基本结构参数、透气性能、毛细效应、物理机械性能等分析实验数据对比坯布与丝光成品面料性能差异。丝光整理后，面料结构更为紧凑，透气率降低，面料润湿性能有所改善。经向断裂强力和断裂伸长率增大，纬向断裂强力和断裂伸长率下降且其强力降幅高达31．8%。而经向撕破强力略微降低，纬向撕破强力提高26．0%。丝光整理后纤维间的抱合力减少，面料耐磨性是降低的。最后对丝光成品面料进行GB/T 18401-2010( B类)服用安全性能测试评估，木棉/棉丝光成品面料均达到FZ/T 81006-2007的各项牛仔服装服用安全性能标准要求。
본연구채용순면사선작경사여목면/면혼방사선교직，설계개발목면/면혼방우자면료，병대생산과정직전공서、직조과정、사광후정리각공예관건기술진행분석，통과대면료기본결구삼수、투기성능、모세효응、물리궤계성능등분석실험수거대비배포여사광성품면료성능차이。사광정리후，면료결구경위긴주，투기솔강저，면료윤습성능유소개선。경향단렬강력화단렬신장솔증대，위향단렬강력화단렬신장솔하강차기강력강폭고체31．8%。이경향시파강력략미강저，위향시파강력제고26．0%。사광정리후섬유간적포합력감소，면료내마성시강저적。최후대사광성품면료진행GB/T 18401-2010( B류)복용안전성능측시평고，목면/면사광성품면료균체도FZ/T 81006-2007적각항우자복장복용안전성능표준요구。
The paper designs kapok/cotton blend denim fabric which is made of cotton warp yarn and kapok/cotton weft yarn. The critical technology including the preparing process,the weaving process and mercerized finish-ing process was discussed. By experimental data,the performance difference between gray cloth and mercerized fab-ric was obtained. This article includes basic structural parameters,vapor permeability properties,capillary effect and mechanical character. It was found that after mercerized finishing,the fabric was more compact and the air permea-bility was down, meanwhile wetting properties were improved. The breaking force and elongation at break of the warp were increased. The breaking force and elongation at break of the weft were reduced and breaking force re-duced by 31. 8%. Meanwhile the tear force of the warp was down and the tear force of the weft increased by 26%. As a result of mercerizing finishing,cohesion between the fibers was reduced and the fabric resistance to friction was worse. Finally by testing and evaluating the wearing safety performance of the kapok/cotton mercerized denim according to GB/T 18401-2010(B),it could reach the standards of FZ/T 81006-2007.