CAJ | 학술논문

通过对传统纯涤不倒绒染整工艺的分析，根据蓬莱嘉信耐碱型分散染料能在强碱下染色的特性，实现了纯涤不倒绒碱减量染色一浴法。介绍了该工艺的配方、条件，列举了绍兴二印大生产的结果。探讨了适合纯涤不倒绒碱减量染色一浴法的分散染料以及能够控制其匀染的助剂，比较了一浴法工艺与传统工艺的综合成本，得到了较完善的一浴法工艺，避免了传统工艺中的庛病，减少了水、电、汽的用量，缩短了工时，减少了污染物的排放，且产品染后色泽纯正靓丽，悬垂度与手感俱佳。
통과대전통순조불도융염정공예적분석，근거봉래가신내감형분산염료능재강감하염색적특성，실현료순조불도융감감량염색일욕법。개소료해공예적배방、조건，열거료소흥이인대생산적결과。탐토료괄합순조불도융감감량염색일욕법적분산염료이급능구공제기균염적조제，비교료일욕법공예여전통공예적종합성본，득도료교완선적일욕법공예，피면료전통공예중적자병，감소료수、전、기적용량，축단료공시，감소료오염물적배방，차산품염후색택순정정려，현수도여수감구가。
Based on the analysis of traditional dyeing and finishing process of pure polyester un-falling fluff, as well as the dyeing characteristic of Penglai Jiaxin alkali resisting disperse dyes under strong alkali, one bath method of alkali peeling and dyeing for pure polyester no-falling-fluff was realized. The recipe and conditions of the one bath method were introduced, the results of mass production in Shaoxing Printing and Dyeing Co., Ltd. were enumerated. Disperse dyes, as as well auxiliaries used for level dyeing, applicable for pure polyester no-falling-fluff one-bath process of alkali peeling and dyeing were discussed. By comparing costs of one bath method and traditional process, a better one bath process was obtained. This process avoids the defects in traditional process, and is with lower water, electricity and gas consumption, as well as shorter time and little pollutant emission. Furthermore, the dyed fabric present pure vivid color with better drapability and handle.