CAJ | 학술논문

针对文化式女装原型中袖窿弧线和袖山弧线与其影响参数间数量关系不够直观和明确的问题，揭示了胸围与袖窿周长和袖山周长的数量关系，并提出袖山周长和袖窿周长的估算模型。首先绘制了29个净胸围在72～100cm之间的衣身原型样板，并测量各样板的袖窿深、袖山高、袖窿周长、袖山周长等部位的数据，接着分别采用最小二乘法和RB F神经网络2种曲线拟合的方法构建袖窿周长和袖山周长的估算模型，再利用一组未知数据比较2种估算模型的性能。研究表明，2种估算模型的性能表现均令人满意，有助于服装制板人员进行服装尺寸估算。同时，胸围与袖窿周长和袖山周长均存在非常明显的线性关系。在精度方面，利用最小二乘法进行曲线拟合得出的估算模型更好。
침대문화식녀장원형중수륭호선화수산호선여기영향삼수간수량관계불구직관화명학적문제，게시료흉위여수륭주장화수산주장적수량관계，병제출수산주장화수륭주장적고산모형。수선회제료29개정흉위재72～100cm지간적의신원형양판，병측량각양판적수륭심、수산고、수륭주장、수산주장등부위적수거，접착분별채용최소이승법화RB F신경망락2충곡선의합적방법구건수륭주장화수산주장적고산모형，재이용일조미지수거비교2충고산모형적성능。연구표명，2충고산모형적성능표현균령인만의，유조우복장제판인원진행복장척촌고산。동시，흉위여수륭주장화수산주장균존재비상명현적선성관계。재정도방면，이용최소이승법진행곡선의합득출적고산모형경호。
The parameters influencing the armhole and sleeve cap structures of culture prototype were col‐lected firstly .Afterwards the relationship between the parameters and armhole and sleeve cap structure was revealed by least square method and RBF artificial neural network .Through comparing the proper‐ties of two curve fitting model ,it is indicated that the two curve fitting model are both feasible to esti‐mate the pattern data .And the accuracy of estimating by least square method curve fitting model is high‐er than that of RBF ANN model .