CAJ | 학술논문

通过波浪水槽实验，对海平面变化造成的波浪动力因素改变引起的沙质岸滩形态响应开展机理性研究。实验采用1∶10单一沙质斜坡概化岸滩，利用3种不同实验水深模拟海平面变化，考虑椭圆余弦波、非规则波、规则波和孤立波4种类型波浪作用。实验对波浪在斜坡上的传播变形、破碎、上爬和回落过程的波高及波浪作用后的岸滩地形进行了测量。实验结果表明，椭圆余弦波、规则波和非规则波作用下，平衡岸滩呈现出滩肩形态，孤立波作用下则呈沙坝形态。海平面上升造成波浪动力增强，沙质岸滩平衡剖面形状基本保持不变向岸平移，槽谷、滩肩、沙坝位置以及岸线蚀退距离，均呈现出良好规律性。
통과파랑수조실험，대해평면변화조성적파랑동력인소개변인기적사질안탄형태향응개전궤이성연구。실험채용1∶10단일사질사파개화안탄，이용3충불동실험수심모의해평면변화，고필타원여현파、비규칙파、규칙파화고립파4충류형파랑작용。실험대파랑재사파상적전파변형、파쇄、상파화회락과정적파고급파랑작용후적안탄지형진행료측량。실험결과표명，타원여현파、규칙파화비규칙파작용하，평형안탄정현출탄견형태，고립파작용하칙정사패형태。해평면상승조성파랑동력증강，사질안탄평형부면형상기본보지불변향안평이，조곡、탄견、사패위치이급안선식퇴거리，균정현출량호규률성。
A set of 2D wave flume experiments on a sandy beach were performed to investigate the morphological re‐sponse of sandy beach to the wave dynamic factors causing sea‐level changes .The initial 1/10 simplex beach slope was exposed to the following different wave actions ,i .e .,cnoidal waves ,irregular waves ,regular waves and solitary waves actions ,and three different experimental water depths were used to simulate the sea‐level change .This study measured a series of free surface elevations for different waves at the time of wave propagation ,wave breaking ,up‐rush and backwash ,and cross‐shore beach profiles after undergoing wave actions .The results showed that the e‐quilibrium beach profile showed wide high berm topography after undergoing cnoidal waves ,irregular waves and regular waves ,and yet it became sandbar form topography after undergoing solitary wave action .The equilibrium profile shapes were essentially unchanged but moved shoreward under sea‐level rise ,and the position of berm , trough ,sandbar and the retrograde distance of shoreline show good correlations under the four different wave ac‐tions .