CAJ | 학술논문

经编提花间隔织物是一种三维立体成形织物，一面具有丰富的花纹效应，另一面为平纹或网眼结构。经编提花间隔织物作为文胸面料，不仅服用性能优良，美观时尚，而且可经简单的缝合或模压成形直接制成罩杯。文章围绕经编提花3D文胸面料的设计与开发展开研究，介绍了经编提花3D文胸面料的特点，阐述了该类织物的花型设计和工艺设计方法，结合实例从生产设备、生产原料、组织结构、工艺设计、上机织造和后整理等方面详细说明了3D文胸面料的开发流程。
경편제화간격직물시일충삼유입체성형직물，일면구유봉부적화문효응，령일면위평문혹망안결구。경편제화간격직물작위문흉면료，불부복용성능우량，미관시상，이차가경간단적봉합혹모압성형직접제성조배。문장위요경편제화3D문흉면료적설계여개발전개연구，개소료경편제화3D문흉면료적특점，천술료해류직물적화형설계화공예설계방법，결합실례종생산설비、생산원료、조직결구、공예설계、상궤직조화후정리등방면상세설명료3D문흉면료적개발류정。
Warp-knitted jacquard space fabric is a kind of three-dimensional fabric produced on double-needle bed Raschel machine with one jacquard bar. It is composed of upper fabric, lower fabric and interlayer fabric, and one surface is rich in pattern for the jacquard bar’s effect. As brassiere fabrics, warp-knitted jacquard 3D fabrics not only have the characteristics of amenity, beauty, but also can be directly made into brassieres by simple suture or molding. In this paper, the design and development of warp-knitted jacquard 3D brassiere fabrics was researched. Firstly, the characteristics of warp knitted jacquard space fabrics were introduced. Secondly, the pattern design requirements of warp-knitted jacquard spacer brassiere fabrics were explained. Thirdly, the process planning methods of warp-knitted jacquard 3D fabrics for brassiere were described in detail, including knitting machines, the raw materials, stitches, ifnishing and other aspects. Finally, the development process of jacquard space brassiere fabrics is illustrated with practical examples, including CAD design, knitting and ifnishing.