CAJ | 학술논문

随着提花机的更新换代及纹织CAD系统的普及，纹织工艺发生了较大变化。本文阐述了目前提花机目板设计及装造过程中可能出现的问题及解决办法。电子提花机的目板穿法须根据纹针的设置来选择，采用空针的方法能使装造适应品种密度的变化，从而降低装造成本；零花在目板上的安排和传统的方法相反。纹板编排需保证织出纹样的方向及组织飞数与原始设计一致，如有必要可在进行意匠处理时把纹样上下或左右颠倒后再制作纹板文件；利用纹织CAD制作纹板文件时，投梭和样卡需根据织物结构、生产设备、意匠工艺等因素设计。
수착제화궤적경신환대급문직CAD계통적보급，문직공예발생료교대변화。본문천술료목전제화궤목판설계급장조과정중가능출현적문제급해결판법。전자제화궤적목판천법수근거문침적설치래선택，채용공침적방법능사장조괄응품충밀도적변화，종이강저장조성본；령화재목판상적안배화전통적방법상반。문판편배수보증직출문양적방향급조직비수여원시설계일치，여유필요가재진행의장처리시파문양상하혹좌우전도후재제작문판문건；이용문직CAD제작문판문건시，투사화양잡수근거직물결구、생산설비、의장공예등인소설계。
With the upgrading of jacquard loom and the popularity of jacquard CAD, jacquard process has changed greatly. In this paper, the possible problems appeared in the designing and mounting of jacquard harness board were probed and solutions were given. The harness board of electronic jacquard must be tied according to the settings of figured hooks; the empty needle method can be used to adapt to the density changes of products, so as to reduce the cost of jacquard mounting; and the harness board arrangements of pattern-less area are contrary to traditional methods. The pattern card arrangements must ensure that the direction of woven patterns and step number are consistent with original design, if necessary, the design can be upside down or left-right reversed before making the pattern file during preparing jacquard design; and when making pattern file with jacquard CAD, picking and sample card should be designed by taking fabric structure, production equipment and jacquard technology into consideration.