CAJ | 학술논문

设计并织制一款经纬向均采用SPH+POY混纤丝、缎纹组织与绉组织构成的双面效应四面弹织物，采用正交试验确定SPH丝四面弹织物的最佳精练工艺，进一步采用KES风格仪测定织物相关性能指标。结果表明：在精练工艺中，精练剂浓度是影响织物白度和尺寸变化的最大因素。优化的精练工艺为：精练剂浓度3g/L，处理温度为100℃,处理时间50min，纯碱1g/L，硅酸钠0.3g/L，浴比1：50。四面弹织物精练后正反面具有明显不同的外观效果，正面是比较均匀的绉效应，织物的色泽饱满均匀，反面平整、光洁。与普通涤纶织物相比， SPH织物柔软蓬松弹性好，拉伸易变形，拉伸变形后具有很好的拉伸回复性能，易发生剪切形变但剪切回复性与普通涤纶织物几乎相同，SPH织物表面光滑平整程度与普通涤纶织物相当。
설계병직제일관경위향균채용SPH+POY혼섬사、단문조직여추조직구성적쌍면효응사면탄직물，채용정교시험학정SPH사사면탄직물적최가정련공예，진일보채용KES풍격의측정직물상관성능지표。결과표명：재정련공예중，정련제농도시영향직물백도화척촌변화적최대인소。우화적정련공예위：정련제농도3g/L，처리온도위100℃,처리시간50min，순감1g/L，규산납0.3g/L，욕비1：50。사면탄직물정련후정반면구유명현불동적외관효과，정면시비교균균적추효응，직물적색택포만균균，반면평정、광길。여보통조륜직물상비， SPH직물유연봉송탄성호，랍신역변형，랍신변형후구유흔호적랍신회복성능，역발생전절형변단전절회복성여보통조륜직물궤호상동，SPH직물표면광활평정정도여보통조륜직물상당。
We refine the the SPH elastic fabric, get the optimum refining process with the orthogonal test, analyze and compare the refining and the dyeing effects on the fabric appearance. By the way, we measure the changes of different performance of the treated- fabric with the KES style instrument. The results showthat: in the refining process, the refining agent concentration is the biggest factor that affects the change of the fabric whiteness and size. The optimization of refining process is:the refining agent concentration is 3g/L.The processing temperature is 100 ℃ . The processing time of 50 min. The soda concentration is 1g/L. The sodium silicate is 0.3g/L,and the bath ratio is 1:50. After dyeing, the positive and negative side of the elastic fabric have significantly different appearance. The crepe effect of the positive side is uniform, the color is full and uniform, too. The other side is smooth and clean. Compare with the ordinary polyester fabric, SPH fabric is more soft and fluffy . It also has good elasticity. Easy to tensile deformation and after the tensile deformation has good stretch recovery properties. It is prone to shear deformation but the Shear resilience is almost the same with ordinary polyester fabric.The surface smooth degree of the SPH fabric is quite to ordinary polyester fabric.