CAJ | 학술논문

为丰富天然染料的品种,提取天然黑米色素用于柞蚕丝绸的染色,探讨了染色pH、染色温度、染色时间对染色织物K/S值及红绿值a*的影响,优化出最佳直接染色工艺参数,研究了Cu2+、Fe2+、Sn2+及其拼混媒染离子对染色织物色光、色深值及染色牢度的影响。结果表明,优化的直接染色条件为：染色pH=3,染色温度90℃,染色时间60 min；不同媒染剂可分别得到不同色泽的柞蚕丝绸,媒染织物具有较好的耐皂洗及耐摩擦色牢度,但耐光色牢度较差。
위봉부천연염료적품충,제취천연흑미색소용우작잠사주적염색,탐토료염색pH、염색온도、염색시간대염색직물K/S치급홍록치a*적영향,우화출최가직접염색공예삼수,연구료Cu2+、Fe2+、Sn2+급기병혼매염리자대염색직물색광、색심치급염색뇌도적영향。결과표명,우화적직접염색조건위：염색pH=3,염색온도90℃,염색시간60 min；불동매염제가분별득도불동색택적작잠사주,매염직물구유교호적내조세급내마찰색뇌도,단내광색뇌도교차。
To enrich the variety of natural dyes, a natural coloring matter was extracted from black rice and used to dye tussah silk. The effects of the dyeing pH, dyeing temperature and time on K/S and a* values of the dyed silk fabrics were explored, and then the optimum direct dyeing process was obtained. The effects of mordant ions such as Cu2+, Fe2+, Sn2+ and composite mordant ions on color shade, K/S value and color fast?ness of dyed tussah silk were studied. The results showed that the optimized direct dyeing process was as fol?lows: pH=3, dyeing at 90 ℃ for 60 min. The color of dyed tussah silk various with metal ions, the mordant dyed tussah silk fabrics had good color fastness to washing and rubbing, but they had low light fastness.