海洋学报(中文版)
海洋學報(中文版)
해양학보(중문판)
ACTA OCEANOLOGICA SINICA
2015年
5期
76-86
,共11页
于吉涛%丁圆婷%程璜鑫%陈子燊
于吉濤%丁圓婷%程璜鑫%陳子燊
우길도%정원정%정황흠%진자신
地形动力过程%海滩%台风%典型相关分析
地形動力過程%海灘%檯風%典型相關分析
지형동력과정%해탄%태풍%전형상관분석
morphodynamic processes%foreshore%typhoon%canonical correlation analysis
基于0709号台风“圣帕”影响下粤东后江湾的现场实测海滩前滨地形资料和水动力、风等资料,采用典型相关分析方法识别了台风影响下海滩前滨地形不同的变化过程,揭示了这些不同变化过程的主要控制因子,并尝试给出了物理解释。研究结果表明:(1)台风影响下海滩前滨地形的主要变化过程是水上滩肩被破坏—水下岸坡略有堆积—水下沙坝泥沙向海搬运,控制这一过程的主要动力因子是风速东向量、最大波高和碎波尺度参数;(2)海滩前滨地形的次要变化过程是海滩前滨泥沙向海搬运而形成水下沙坝,控制这一过程的主要动力因子是最大波周期和海滩地下水位;(3)海滩前滨地形也表现出前滨上部地带堆积、下部侵蚀的变化过程,控制这一过程的主要动力因子是沿岸流、海滩地下水位和最大波高。这些研究结果进一步揭示了台风影响下海滩前滨地形动力过程是由多个不同的地形-动力过程耦合作用而组成。
基于0709號檯風“聖帕”影響下粵東後江灣的現場實測海灘前濱地形資料和水動力、風等資料,採用典型相關分析方法識彆瞭檯風影響下海灘前濱地形不同的變化過程,揭示瞭這些不同變化過程的主要控製因子,併嘗試給齣瞭物理解釋。研究結果錶明:(1)檯風影響下海灘前濱地形的主要變化過程是水上灘肩被破壞—水下岸坡略有堆積—水下沙壩泥沙嚮海搬運,控製這一過程的主要動力因子是風速東嚮量、最大波高和碎波呎度參數;(2)海灘前濱地形的次要變化過程是海灘前濱泥沙嚮海搬運而形成水下沙壩,控製這一過程的主要動力因子是最大波週期和海灘地下水位;(3)海灘前濱地形也錶現齣前濱上部地帶堆積、下部侵蝕的變化過程,控製這一過程的主要動力因子是沿岸流、海灘地下水位和最大波高。這些研究結果進一步揭示瞭檯風影響下海灘前濱地形動力過程是由多箇不同的地形-動力過程耦閤作用而組成。
기우0709호태풍“골파”영향하월동후강만적현장실측해탄전빈지형자료화수동력、풍등자료,채용전형상관분석방법식별료태풍영향하해탄전빈지형불동적변화과정,게시료저사불동변화과정적주요공제인자,병상시급출료물리해석。연구결과표명:(1)태풍영향하해탄전빈지형적주요변화과정시수상탄견피파배—수하안파략유퇴적—수하사패니사향해반운,공제저일과정적주요동력인자시풍속동향량、최대파고화쇄파척도삼수;(2)해탄전빈지형적차요변화과정시해탄전빈니사향해반운이형성수하사패,공제저일과정적주요동력인자시최대파주기화해탄지하수위;(3)해탄전빈지형야표현출전빈상부지대퇴적、하부침식적변화과정,공제저일과정적주요동력인자시연안류、해탄지하수위화최대파고。저사연구결과진일보게시료태풍영향하해탄전빈지형동력과정시유다개불동적지형-동력과정우합작용이조성。
Based on the foreshore topography,water dynamics and wind data on Houjiangwan beach in East Guang-dong,this paper used the method of canonical correlation analysis to identify different morphodynamic foreshore processes under the influence of the typhoon “Sepat”(No.0709),and revealed some primary dynamic factors con-trolling these foreshore processes and attempted to present the physical interpretations.The analytical results in-cluded that (1)the primary foreshore process consisted of the eroded subaerial zone with the destroyed berm,the slightly depositional submarine slope zone and the bar zone with sediment movement offshore,and the process was controlled by several factors such as the eastern component of the wind speed,the maximum wave heights and the surf scaling parameter;(2)the secondary terrain process was the formation of submarine bar due to the sediment being transported from the foreshore to offshore,and the process was dominated by two dynamic factors such as the maximum wave periods and the beach underground water levels;and (3)the foreshore morphology was also char-acterized by the accumulation of the upper zone and the erosion of the lower zone of the foreshore,and the process was controlled by the following factors,i.e.,the longshore currents,the beach underground water levels and the maximum wave heights.Finally,this study proposed that the morphodynamic processes of the foreshore are cou-pled by many different morphological and dynamic processes.