CAJ | 학술논문

介绍了山竹壳提取液以及松香粉固色液的制备方法，并以山竹壳提取液为染液用于纯棉针织物的染色。测试并分析了染液用量、pH值、染色温度、染色时间等因素对染色效果的影响，并设计正交试验确定了最佳染色工艺。对松香粉固色前后织物的色牢度进行对比，并对织物的匀染性和顶破强力进行测试。结果表明，山竹壳提取液上染纯棉针织物的最佳工艺为：染液用量8.5%，pH值为6，浴比1∶40，温度85℃，时间70 min；松香粉固色液固色后的织物耐皂洗色牢度和耐摩擦色牢度均可提升1~2级；山竹壳提取液上染纯棉针织物时，匀染性好，顶破强力基本保持不变。
개소료산죽각제취액이급송향분고색액적제비방법，병이산죽각제취액위염액용우순면침직물적염색。측시병분석료염액용량、pH치、염색온도、염색시간등인소대염색효과적영향，병설계정교시험학정료최가염색공예。대송향분고색전후직물적색뇌도진행대비，병대직물적균염성화정파강력진행측시。결과표명，산죽각제취액상염순면침직물적최가공예위：염액용량8.5%，pH치위6，욕비1∶40，온도85℃，시간70 min；송향분고색액고색후적직물내조세색뇌도화내마찰색뇌도균가제승1~2급；산죽각제취액상염순면침직물시，균염성호，정파강력기본보지불변。
The preparation of mangosteen shell extracting solution and colophony powder fixing liquid was intro-duced, and mangosteen shell extracting solution was used for the dyeing of cotton knitted fabric.The effects of the dosage of dyeing liquor, pH value, dyeing time and dyeing temperature on dyeing effects were tested and ana-lyzed, and the optimal process was determined through orthogonal experiment. The color fastness of fabric before and after fixation by colophony powder was contrasted, and the dye levelness and bursting strength of fabric was tested. The results show that the optimal process of mangosteen shell extracting solution on cotton knitted fabric is that the dosage of dyeing liquor is 8.5%, pH value is 6, the bath ratio is 1∶40, dyeing temperature is 85 ℃, and dyeing time is 70 minutes; the soaping and rubbing fastness of fabric after fixation by colophony powder fixing liq-uid can be promoted by 1~2 level; the color levelness is good and bursting strength basically remains the same when dyed by mangosteen shell extracting solution.