CAJ | 학술논문

基于一体裤的的生产技术和性能特点，在金天梭TDL 2+2小筒径双面机上以16．67 tex涤纶丝编织地组织，33．33 tex涤纶丝为起绒纱，4．44 tex氨纶为弹性纱，采用圆筒无缝针织技术开发空气层和拉绒组织相结合的无缝保暖一体裤面料。详细介绍该面料编织工艺，包括设备参数、原料规格、织针和三角排列等，以及染整工艺，如染色、还原、拉绒等。结果表明，该面料具有优越的延伸性、弹性、悬垂性和保暖性，制作的无缝保暖一体裤少裁剪少缝合，更大保留了面料原有特性，适合开发女性秋冬季保暖产品。
기우일체고적적생산기술화성능특점，재금천사TDL 2+2소통경쌍면궤상이16．67 tex조륜사편직지조직，33．33 tex조륜사위기융사，4．44 tex안륜위탄성사，채용원통무봉침직기술개발공기층화랍융조직상결합적무봉보난일체고면료。상세개소해면료편직공예，포괄설비삼수、원료규격、직침화삼각배렬등，이급염정공예，여염색、환원、랍융등。결과표명，해면료구유우월적연신성、탄성、현수성화보난성，제작적무봉보난일체고소재전소봉합，경대보류료면료원유특성，괄합개발녀성추동계보난산품。
Based on the production technology and characteristics of fully-fashioned pants, the paper develops a new kind of seamless and heat retention knitted fabric for fully-fashioned pants on Kingtanso TDL 2+2 small circu-lar knitting machine, by using 16.67 tex polyester filament to knit ground stitch, 33.33 tex polyester filament as fleece yarn and 4.44 tex spandex filaments as elastic yarn, which combines the advantages of air layer and brushed structures. It also introduces in detail the knitting technology, including equipment parameters, raw material specifi-cations, needle arrangements and cam arrangements, as well as the dyeing and finishing technology, including dy-ing, reduction and brushing and so on. The results show the fabric has excellent extensibility, elasticity, drapability and heat retention properties. The fully-fashioned pants produced by this new fabric has the characteristics of less cutting and sewing, which retain the original properties of fabric as much as possible, and is suitable for develop-ing women’s autumn and winter heat retention products.