CAJ | 학술논문

以10．0 tex紧密纺防缩羊毛纱和8．3 tex/48 f的PTT弹性纱为原料，在德乐细针距（40针/25．4 mm）双面棉毛机上开发一款羊毛微弹细针距针织面料。详细阐述面料编织工艺，包括原料选择、设备参数、编织注意事项等，以及染PTT纱线和染羊毛纱线的染整工艺及技术要点等，并对成品面料缩率及牢度等指标进行测试。结果表明，该针织西装面料轻薄，手感柔软，风格细腻，高雅挺括，具有弹性好、保暖性佳等特点，适用于制作春秋穿着的高档西装、大衣面料。
이10．0 tex긴밀방방축양모사화8．3 tex/48 f적PTT탄성사위원료，재덕악세침거（40침/25．4 mm）쌍면면모궤상개발일관양모미탄세침거침직면료。상세천술면료편직공예，포괄원료선택、설비삼수、편직주의사항등，이급염PTT사선화염양모사선적염정공예급기술요점등，병대성품면료축솔급뇌도등지표진행측시。결과표명，해침직서장면료경박，수감유연，풍격세니，고아정괄，구유탄성호、보난성가등특점，괄용우제작춘추천착적고당서장、대의면료。
The paper develops a new kind of fine gauge top class suit-used slight elastic wool knitted fabric on Terrot double interlock machine with ultra fine gauge (40 G), by using 10 tex compact spinning non-shrinkable wool yarn and 8.3 tex/48 f PTT elastic yarn. It also introduces in detail the knitting technology, including raw-material selection, equipment parameters and the key points during knitting process, and the dyeing and finishing technology for PTT and wool yarn. In addition, the shrinkage rates and corresponding fastness of the new products are tested. The results show that the new fabric made in this paper has light-weight and bears soft hand, fine tex-ture, slight elasticity and heat retention properties, which is suitable for developing spring and autumn top class knitted fabric used for suit and overcoat.