CAJ | 학술논문

通过正交试验讨论了提取温度、提取时间、料液比等对提取效果的影响,研究了染色温度、染色时间、浴比对真丝绸染色效果的影响,优化了桃树叶天然染料提取工艺及提取液对真丝绸的染色工艺。采用桃树叶天然染料直接对丝绸织物染色,与预媒染、同浴媒染、后媒染3种染色方式进行了比较,并测试了染色织物的耐皂洗色牢度。结果表明,桃树叶染料色素提取的优化工艺为：温度100℃,时间60 min,料液比1∶30；桃树叶直接染丝绸的优化工艺为：温度75℃,时间40 min,浴比1∶50；桃树叶染色织物的耐皂洗色牢度符合国家优级品标准。
통과정교시험토론료제취온도、제취시간、료액비등대제취효과적영향,연구료염색온도、염색시간、욕비대진사주염색효과적영향,우화료도수협천연염료제취공예급제취액대진사주적염색공예。채용도수협천연염료직접대사주직물염색,여예매염、동욕매염、후매염3충염색방식진행료비교,병측시료염색직물적내조세색뇌도。결과표명,도수협염료색소제취적우화공예위：온도100℃,시간60 min,료액비1∶30；도수협직접염사주적우화공예위：온도75℃,시간40 min,욕비1∶50；도수협염색직물적내조세색뇌도부합국가우급품표준。
The influences of extraction temperature, extraction time, ratio of solid to liquid on extraction results and influences of dyeing temperature, dyeing time and liquor ratio on dyeing results of silk fabric were discussed by orthogonal experiments. The extraction conditions for natural dye from peach leaves and the dye?ing conditions on silk fabric with the extract were optimized. Silk fabrics were directly dyed with peach leaves natural dye, and compared with three different dyeing methods such as pre- mordant, meta- mordant and post- mordant dyeing. The colorfastness to washing of the dyed silk fabric was tested. The optimum extrac?tion conditions were as fol ows: extracting at 100 ℃ for 60 min, ratio solid to liquid was 1∶30. The optimized dyeing technological conditions were at 75 ℃ for 40 min, liquor ratio was 1∶50. The soaping colorfastness of dyed silk fabric with peach leaves dye met the demand of national excel ent grade goods.