CAJ | 학술논문

针对天然染料红曲色素的染色性能，通过分析不同影响因素对染色效果的影响，确定出天然红曲色素真丝绸染色的最佳媒染剂和媒染工艺．先通过光谱曲线对红曲色素的pH值稳定性进行分析，后采用单因素变量法，对媒染剂的种类和用量、染色浴及媒染浴的pH值、媒染温度、时间进行逐一优化，确定出较好的媒染剂和媒染工艺．结果表明，红曲色素更适宜在酸性条件下上染，在用量为8％（o．w．f．）时，染色浴pH值3～4；最佳媒染剂是稀土，且用量为6％（o．w．f．），媒染液pH值3，媒染温度85℃，媒染时间30min ，浴比50∶1，真丝织物具有理想的表观深度，染色织物的各项牢度较好．
침대천연염료홍곡색소적염색성능，통과분석불동영향인소대염색효과적영향，학정출천연홍곡색소진사주염색적최가매염제화매염공예．선통과광보곡선대홍곡색소적pH치은정성진행분석，후채용단인소변량법，대매염제적충류화용량、염색욕급매염욕적pH치、매염온도、시간진행축일우화，학정출교호적매염제화매염공예．결과표명，홍곡색소경괄의재산성조건하상염，재용량위8％（o．w．f．）시，염색욕pH치3～4；최가매염제시희토，차용량위6％（o．w．f．），매염액pH치3，매염온도85℃，매염시간30min ，욕비50∶1，진사직물구유이상적표관심도，염색직물적각항뇌도교호．
The dyeing property of nature dyestuff Monascus pigment was studied .After an analysis of different factors′impact on dyeing effect ,the optimal mordant and chrome dyeing method were estab‐lished .First ,pH value stability of monascus pigment was studied by spectral curve .And then the dosage of mordant agent ,the pH value of dyeing bath and mordant bath ,mordant temperature ,and mordant time were optimized by using single factor experiment method . Finally ,the better after‐chrome dyeing process was determined . Results show that the suitable pH value for dyeing with monascus pigment is 3~4 ,so the pH value of dyeing bath is about 3~4 w hen the dosage of dyestuff is 8% (o .w .f .) .The appropriate mordant agent is rare earth and its dosage is 6% (o .w .f .) ,the pH value of mordant dyeing bath 3 ,mordant temperature 85℃ ,mordant time is 30 min ,and bath ratio 50∶1 .Under this optimal after‐chrome dyeing method ,the silk fabric gets the deep K/S value ,the fast‐ness of the dyed fabric is good .