CAJ | 학술논문

本文是首篇从设计和制作角度来研究新疆吐鲁番洋海墓地出土裤子的报告。在该墓地M21和M157两座墓葬中,均发现有羊毛裤（残）,碳十四年代为公元前13~前10世纪之间,早于广为人知的斯基泰同类出土文物,而这一阶段正是中亚东部的游牧方式向外传播时期。运用服装设计的相关方式方法,我们对两条裤子的结构进行了细致分析,发现裤子由三块独立的织片制成,其中两片近长方形,分别做成左右两条裤腿,长度从腰部直至脚踝;第三片做成裤裆,连接左右裤腿。裤子的整个制作过程中没有剪裁这一环节,因为所需裤料的特定尺寸已在织机上定制完成。三块织片所用织线与最后缝制时所用缝线在颜色和质地上一致,说明织工和裁缝或为同一人或为配合默契的两个人。整条裤子裆部宽大、裤腿修身,看上去很像现代马裤的前身。结合墓中同时出土的随葬马具和兵器,我们的研究结果证实了分腿式下装的出现是与骑马盛行、战争频仍和大规模迁徙紧密相关的这一假设。裤子成为人类提高自身适应能力所需物质材料中的重要组成部分。
본문시수편종설계화제작각도래연구신강토로번양해묘지출토고자적보고。재해묘지M21화M157량좌묘장중,균발현유양모고（잔）,탄십사년대위공원전13~전10세기지간,조우엄위인지적사기태동류출토문물,이저일계단정시중아동부적유목방식향외전파시기。운용복장설계적상관방식방법,아문대량조고자적결구진행료세치분석,발현고자유삼괴독립적직편제성,기중량편근장방형,분별주성좌우량조고퇴,장도종요부직지각과;제삼편주성고당,련접좌우고퇴。고자적정개제작과정중몰유전재저일배절,인위소수고료적특정척촌이재직궤상정제완성。삼괴직편소용직선여최후봉제시소용봉선재안색화질지상일치,설명직공화재봉혹위동일인혹위배합묵계적량개인。정조고자당부관대、고퇴수신,간상거흔상현대마고적전신。결합묘중동시출토적수장마구화병기,아문적연구결과증실료분퇴식하장적출현시여기마성행、전쟁빈잉화대규모천사긴밀상관적저일가설。고자성위인류제고자신괄응능력소수물질재료중적중요조성부분。
Here,we present the first report on the design and manufacturing process of trousers excavated at Yanghai cemetery（ 42°48＇-42°49＇ N. 89°39＇-89°40＇ E） near the Turfan oasis,western China. In tombs M21 and M157 fragments of woollen trousers were discovered which have been radiocarbon dated to the time interval between the 13 th and the 10 th century BC. Their age corresponds to the spread of mobile pastoralism in eastern Central Asia and predates the widely known Scythian finds. Using methods of fashion design,the cut of both trousers was studied in detail. The trousers were made of three independently woven pieces of fabric,one nearly rectangular for each side spanning the whole length from waistband to hemline at the ankle and one stepped cross-shaped crotch-piece which bridged the gap between the two side-pieces. The tailoring process did not involve cutting the cloth： instead the parts were shaped on the loom,and they were shaped in the correct size to fit a specific person. The yarns of the three fabrics and threads for final sewing match in color and quality,which implies that the weaver and the tailor was the same person or that both cooperated in a highly coordinated way. The design of the trousers from Yanghai with straight-fitting legs and a wide crotch-piece seems to be a predecessor of modern riding trousers. Together with horse gear and weapons as grave goods in both tombs our results specify former assumptions that the invention of bifurcated lower body garments is related to the new epoch of horseback riding,mounted warfare and greater mobility. Trousers are essential part of the tool kit with which humans improve their physical qualities.