艺术设计研究
藝術設計研究
예술설계연구
Art & Design Research
2015年
3期
26-30
,共5页
袴%褶%袴褶%戎装%常服
袴%褶%袴褶%戎裝%常服
고%습%고습%융장%상복
Ku%Xi%Ku Xi%Military Dress%Daily Dress
“袴褶”是出现于魏晋时期的一个专有服饰名词,关于它的读音和具体内涵,当今学界时常还会出现分歧。笔者以为,“袴褶”是和“上衣下裳”之制相对应的另外一种服制,即“上衣下裤”的着装方式。袴,音裤,包括大口裤、小口裤、短裤、胫衣等。褶,音袭,原本是指左衽上衣,后通指左、右衽上衣,其下襟有长有短,短的在臀部上下,长的至膝盖上下,但核心是小腿裤管明显暴露在衣襟之外,以利于行动。魏晋南北朝时期,此种服制主要是戎装和下层百姓的常服(部分为朝服),目的是为了方便行军格斗和日常劳作等。偶有中上层人士在日常生活中穿着,则必有某些特殊的缘由。
“袴褶”是齣現于魏晉時期的一箇專有服飾名詞,關于它的讀音和具體內涵,噹今學界時常還會齣現分歧。筆者以為,“袴褶”是和“上衣下裳”之製相對應的另外一種服製,即“上衣下褲”的著裝方式。袴,音褲,包括大口褲、小口褲、短褲、脛衣等。褶,音襲,原本是指左衽上衣,後通指左、右衽上衣,其下襟有長有短,短的在臀部上下,長的至膝蓋上下,但覈心是小腿褲管明顯暴露在衣襟之外,以利于行動。魏晉南北朝時期,此種服製主要是戎裝和下層百姓的常服(部分為朝服),目的是為瞭方便行軍格鬥和日常勞作等。偶有中上層人士在日常生活中穿著,則必有某些特殊的緣由。
“고습”시출현우위진시기적일개전유복식명사,관우타적독음화구체내함,당금학계시상환회출현분기。필자이위,“고습”시화“상의하상”지제상대응적령외일충복제,즉“상의하고”적착장방식。고,음고,포괄대구고、소구고、단고、경의등。습,음습,원본시지좌임상의,후통지좌、우임상의,기하금유장유단,단적재둔부상하,장적지슬개상하,단핵심시소퇴고관명현폭로재의금지외,이리우행동。위진남북조시기,차충복제주요시융장화하층백성적상복(부분위조복),목적시위료방편행군격두화일상노작등。우유중상층인사재일상생활중천착,칙필유모사특수적연유。
Ku Xi, as a fashion term, was emerged in the Wei and Jing Dynasty. There are divergent views about its pronunciation and deifnition in current academic circles. The author believes that Ku Die shares the same way of dressing with Shang Yi Xia Ku, which means top dresses match with trousers. The different types of Ku and Xi were used as military dress, daily dress of common people and court dress sometimes. Middle- and upper-class people were occasionaly in Ku Die due to some special rea-sons.