CAJ | 학술논문

从中式传统服装的平面性特点出发,以传统的平面结构理念进行新的服装造型设计,通过对传统服装结构线的移位、变形设计产生新的平面结构形态:传统的通袖线与前后中线角度为 90°,在创新设计中,以改变传统中式服装的通袖线与前后中线角度大小的设计来获得新的廓形;改变传统服装的松量形态,将其由传统的"7"字形设计成如长方形、三角形、圆形形等各种新的形态,进而改变服装的整体廓形.
종중식전통복장적평면성특점출발,이전통적평면결구이념진행신적복장조형설계,통과대전통복장결구선적이위、변형설계산생신적평면결구형태:전통적통수선여전후중선각도위 90°,재창신설계중,이개변전통중식복장적통수선여전후중선각도대소적설계래획득신적곽형;개변전통복장적송량형태,장기유전통적"7"자형설계성여장방형、삼각형、원형형등각충신적형태,진이개변복장적정체곽형.
From the perspective of graphic characteristics of traditional Chinese costumes, the paper discusses designing new clothing shape based on traditional plane structure concept. By translocating or modifying the lines in traditional clothing structure, a new plane structure is designed. In traditional structure, the angle between the left cuff-right cuff line and the front and back center lines is 90 degrees, while in the new design the angle is altered to obtain a new profile. Meanwhile, the shape of clothing can also be obtained by changing the ease design. For instance, the traditional "7" shape can be changed into various new shapes such as "rectangle", "square", "triangle" and "round" shapes, thus modifying the overall silhouette of the clothing.